Perennials, roses, flowering plants, bulbs, climbers, hedges and ornamental planting.
Quick answer: Arborvitae, privet and hornbeam are the most reliable fast-growing hedges, typically adding 30–40 cm (12–16 in) a year and reaching 1.5–2 m (5–6.5 ft) of privacy in about 3–5 years. If you want even faster coverage and don’t mind a looser, less formal shape, elderberry and serviceberry often outgrow them, but both need…
Quick answer: For fast results, arborvitae, privet and Virginia creeper on an existing fence can all deliver real privacy within two to three seasons. For a lower-maintenance evergreen screen that takes longer, yew and holly are worth the wait. In containers, clumping bamboo (Fargesia) and clematis on a trellis are the most reliable choices. Combining…
Quick answer: The best small garden trees mature at 3–6 m (10–20 ft) and generally need 2–3 m (6–10 ft) of clearance from a foundation, more on heavy clay. Multi-stem serviceberry, globe Norway maple and columnar flowering cherry are dependable choices through USDA zones 4–7, while Japanese maple and the Judas tree need a sheltered,…
Quick answer: Plant thuja in spring or early fall, spacing plants 60–150 cm (2–5 ft) apart depending on the variety and how fast you want the hedge to fill in. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide, water deeply and consistently through the first two growing seasons, and feed…
Quick answer: The easiest roses for beginners are disease-resistant shrub and rugosa types such as Bonica, Fru Dagmar Hastrup and The Fairy. They shrug off black spot and powdery mildew without spraying, survive USDA zones 3-6 without winter protection once established, and rebloom through the season. Skip fussy hybrid teas as a first rose.
Quick answer: Most rose problems come down to four culprits: black spot, powdery mildew, rust, and aphids. Check where the symptoms sit first — spots and powder on the leaves point to fungus, sticky curled shoots point to insects. Remove affected parts right away, water at the base instead of overhead, and pick disease-resistant varieties…
Quick answer: The most common cause is planting too deep — the eyes should sit only 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in) below the soil surface, not 10–15 cm. The next most common causes are too little sun (peonies want at least 6 hours of direct light a day), a recent division or move, or a plant…
Quick answer: Plant clematis in spring or early fall in rich, well-drained soil, with the roots shaded and the top growth in sun. Set the crown 8-10 cm (3-4 in) deeper than it sat in the pot, so dormant buds survive if the plant is ever hit by clematis wilt. Water generously through the first…
Quick answer: Dig up dahlia tubers after the first light frost blackens the foliage, typically September through October depending on your zone. Cut the stems back to 10–15 cm (4–6 in), let the clumps dry for a day or two, then store them somewhere dark at 4–7°C (40–45°F) in vermiculite, peat or sand until March…
Quick answer: Pruning depends on the group. Group 1 needs almost no cutting, just light shaping right after flowering. Group 2 gets a light trim in late winter plus deadheading after the first flush. Group 3 gets cut back hard to 8–12 in (20–30 cm) every late winter, which is what keeps it blooming well…