15 Privacy Screening Plants for Your Garden

What to think about before choosing a plant

Before settling on a species, answer three honest questions. How fast do you actually need results — this year, in two years, or are you willing to wait five? Will the screen live in open ground or in a pot on a deck or balcony? And does it matter whether it stays green through winter, or is summer coverage enough?

The answers matter more than most people expect. Gardeners in a hurry often pick a plant because it looks good at the garden center, then discover it takes seven years to fill in. Someone with only a balcony needs completely different species than someone with a full yard to work with.

Sun and soil matter too. Most fast-growing screens, including arborvitae and privet, want full sun to part shade and soil that doesn't stay waterlogged. Shadier spots do better with holly, boxwood or ivy, all of which hold their density with far less light.

Wind exposure is easy to overlook. An open, exposed yard makes evergreens like arborvitae more prone to winter burn, especially when the ground is frozen and roots can't take up moisture to replace what the foliage loses to drying wind. If your yard faces north or west with little shelter, a tougher species like yew handles it better, or you can wrap a temporary burlap windbreak around young plants for their first couple of winters.

Good to know. You don't have to pick just one species. A common and effective trick is planting a fast grower for immediate coverage alongside a slower, lower-maintenance one in the same row. After a few years, thin out or cut back the fast grower once the slower plant has caught up.

How close to the property line can you plant?

Rules here vary a lot by state, county and even by city ordinance, so there's no single number that applies everywhere. Many municipalities do regulate fence and hedge height near a property line, and some have setback requirements for anything planted close to a boundary, particularly for trees that will eventually get large.

A reasonable starting point is to check your local zoning or planning department before planting anything that will mature into a large shrub or tree along a shared line. As a general planning guide, most compact shrubs are fine a foot or two from the line, while anything expected to reach 10 feet (3 m) wide or more as a mature plant deserves more breathing room so it doesn't eventually encroach on a neighbor's yard or drop debris across the line.

Branches and roots that cross onto a neighbor's property are typically that neighbor's to trim back to the line if they cause a problem, though the exact rule again depends on local law. If the planting is near a street corner or driveway, check whether a sight-line or "clear vision triangle" ordinance limits how tall anything can grow in that specific spot, since that's one of the more commonly enforced rules regardless of location.

Common mistake. Never plant something that matures to 12–15 feet (3.5–4.5 m) wide right at the property line just because it looks small in a nursery pot. Always check a plant's mature spread, not just its height, before deciding how far back to set it.

Unlike a solid fence or wall, which many municipalities regulate above a certain height near a boundary, a living hedge or planted screen usually isn't treated as a structure and typically doesn't need a permit regardless of height — sight-line restrictions near intersections being the main exception.

Fast-growing privacy plants

If you're in a hurry, start here. These species build height and density within the first couple of seasons, though that speed usually comes with more frequent trimming to keep them in bounds. For a longer list of fast options specifically in hedge form, see our separate guide to fast-growing hedges.

Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

The most widely planted fast screen in cold-climate gardens, and for good reason. Cultivars like 'Green Giant' and 'Emerald Green' can add 1–3 feet (30–90 cm) a year once established and hold their color through winter. The trade-off is that arborvitae wants full sun and well-drained soil, and it can brown out in harsh winter wind if it's planted somewhere too exposed.

Privet (Ligustrum)

Semi-evergreen in milder zones, meaning it holds much of its foliage through a mild winter but can drop leaves in a hard freeze. Privet grows roughly 1–2 feet (30–60 cm) a year and tolerates repeated shearing better than almost any other hedge plant, which makes it a strong choice if you want a crisp, formal line rather than a looser shape.

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)

One of the fastest climbing vines available, capable of covering an entire fence or wall within two or three seasons once it takes hold. It's deciduous, but it makes up for the bare winter look with brilliant red and orange fall color. It clings on its own with adhesive pads, so it rarely needs extra support on a solid fence or wall.

Honeysuckle (Lonicera)

A twining vine that needs something to wrap around, such as a trellis or wire fence, but grows quickly once established and rewards you with fragrant summer flowers that draw hummingbirds and pollinators. Coverage is seasonal since most types are deciduous, so it works best paired with an existing solid fence for winter privacy.

Low-maintenance evergreen screens

These grow slower, but they reward you with less trimming and green coverage even in January. A good option if you're not in a hurry, or if you already have a temporary screen in place while they get established.

Yew (Taxus)

One of the toughest hedge plants available, and almost unique in how well it tolerates deep shade without thinning out. It grows only 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) a year, which demands patience, but the payoff is a dense, dark green screen that lasts for decades with little more than an annual trim. Note that the berries and needles are toxic if eaten, worth knowing if young children or pets use the yard.

Holly (Ilex)

Evergreen with glossy, dark leaves and a growth rate of roughly 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) a year. Holly tolerates part shade better than most evergreens and produces red berries on female plants when a male is nearby for pollination. Many cultivars have spiny leaves, which makes holly a good pick if you also want to discourage anyone from pushing through the hedge.

Boxwood (Buxus)

Slow and extremely dense, boxwood is better suited to a lower, more formal screen than a tall privacy hedge, since most cultivars stay under 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m) even after many years. It tolerates shearing into precise shapes better than almost any other evergreen, which is why it shows up so often in formal garden design.

Flowering privacy plants

Want a screen that also earns its keep with color and fragrance? These are worth considering, though most are deciduous and give up some winter coverage in exchange.

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

A classic fragrant shrub that grows 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) a year and reaches 8–12 feet (2.4–3.5 m) unpruned. It needs full sun to flower well, rewarding you with a heavy, sweetly scented bloom in late spring. Prune right after flowering if you want to control the shape, since lilac sets next year's flower buds soon afterward.

Mock orange (Philadelphus)

Similar in use to lilac but with a sweeter, almost citrus-like scent from the white blooms in early summer. It grows at a moderate pace, tolerates full sun to part shade, and works well mixed into an informal screen rather than a strictly clipped one.

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)

An underused native shrub for colder gardens that tolerates more shade than most flowering screens, which makes it useful along a shaded property line where arborvitae or privet would thin out. It typically stays under 5–8 feet (1.5–2.4 m) as a clipped screen, so it works best as a lower layer or paired with a taller, sparser plant behind it.

Good to know. Flowering screens like lilac and mock orange also feed pollinators. If attracting bees and butterflies matters to you as much as privacy, our guide to bee-friendly plants covers more options to mix in.

Climbing plants for an existing fence

Already have a fence, trellis or pergola? Climbing plants are usually the cheapest and fastest way to turn a bare structure into a green screen, since you're not building height from scratch.

Ivy (Hedera helix)

Evergreen and self-clinging thanks to small holdfast roots, so it doesn't need support on a solid fence or wall. It tolerates more shade than almost any other climber, making it useful in spots where sun-loving vines struggle. Establishment takes a year or two, after which it grows quickly and can become difficult to control if it isn't cut back regularly.

Clematis

A deciduous climber that does best with its roots shaded and cool while the top growth reaches for the sun, often achieved by placing a lower plant or a shading board in front of the base. Growth is moderate, but the trade-off is large, showy flowers through summer that few other screening plants can match.

Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)

Slower to establish than most vines on this list, often taking two to three years before it really takes off, but eventually climbs 30–50 feet (9–15 m) on a wall using aerial rootlets. Tolerates more shade than most flowering climbers and produces lacy white blooms once mature, making it a good long-term option for a shaded wall or fence.

Privacy plants for pots and balconies

Working with only a balcony, deck or patio? You need species that tolerate a limited root zone without becoming too large or too heavy for the space.

Clumping bamboo (Fargesia)

Unlike running bamboo species such as Phyllostachys, Fargesia grows in a tight clump without underground runners, which makes it far safer in a container or in a bed near a shared boundary. Evergreen, reaching 6–12 feet (1.8–3.5 m) in a container depending on cultivar and pot size, it gives an unusually dense, curtain-like screen even on a fairly narrow balcony.

Common mistake. Never plant running bamboo from the genus Phyllostachys directly in open ground without a rhizome barrier. Its runners can travel many feet underground and pop up in a neighbor's bed or lawn, and digging out an established colony is far harder than preventing one in the first place.

Dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica')

A naturally dense, cone-shaped evergreen that stays compact enough for a large container for many years, reliably hardy through USDA zone 3. Growth is slow, usually just a couple of inches a year, which means less repotting but also a longer wait if you're starting from a small plant. Give it a sheltered spot out of harsh winter wind, since the fine needles can scorch in exposed, dry cold.

Container-grown screens generally need more attention than the same species in open ground. Root volume is limited, so both water and nutrients run out faster, especially during a hot summer stretch. Expect to water more often than you'd think, and feed with a liquid fertilizer through the growing season since rainfall alone rarely covers a pot's needs. In winter, soil in an exposed container freezes faster and harder than the ground around it, so push pots against a house wall or wrap them in burlap if your winters run genuinely cold.

All 15 plants compared

Here's every species from this guide side by side for quick comparison. Growth rates apply during the establishment years and vary with soil, climate and care.

How long until a privacy screen actually works?

This is the question most people actually want answered, and there's no universal number — it depends on species, soil, climate and how established the plant was at planting. But here's a rough pattern for a fast grower like arborvitae or privet, planted as a standard nursery-size hedge plant:

Want coverage the first summer without waiting? Pairing a fast vine with an existing fence or trellis is usually the quickest route. Buying larger, more established nursery stock is another option — more expensive per plant, but it often saves a year or two of waiting.

How to plant for the fastest results

1. Prepare the soil properly before planting. Loosen and aerate a strip at least 16–20 in (40–50 cm) wide, and work in compost or well-rotted manure if the soil is poor or compacted.
2. Choose the right spacing for the species. Fast growers like privet can be spaced 12–16 in (30–40 cm) apart for quick density, while wider plants like arborvitae or yew are usually spaced 16–24 in (40–60 cm) apart.
3. Plant a staggered double row for extra density fast. Two offset rows fill in faster than a single row, but take up more width.
4. Water thoroughly through the first season. Newly planted hedges and vines are most vulnerable to drought stress before their root systems establish in the surrounding soil.
5. Put up a temporary screen if you're in a hurry. A windbreak fabric, a simple trellis, or even a row of tall potted plants can bridge the gap while the permanent screen fills in.
6. Do a light trim in the first season on shrub-form plants. A light tip prune encourages branching lower down rather than just upward growth, which builds a denser hedge over time.
7. Stay on a regular trimming schedule once established. If you've chosen a clippable species like arborvitae, privet or boxwood, the same timing principles apply as for any formal hedge. Our guide on when and how to trim a hedge covers timing and technique in more detail.

Evergreen or deciduous — which is right for you?

Evergreen options like arborvitae, yew and holly give year-round privacy, which matters if your house sits close to neighbors or a street and you want coverage even in January. The trade-off is that most evergreens grow more slowly than the best deciduous options, and some, like arborvitae, can brown out or thin in harsh winter wind or drought.

Deciduous options like lilac, Virginia creeper and honeysuckle often grow faster and add more seasonal interest, with flowers, fall color and sometimes berries. The cost is that the screen thins out or disappears for part of the year, which may be entirely fine if privacy mostly matters on the patio in summer.

Many yards solve this by mixing the two: an evergreen element closest to the patio where year-round privacy matters most, and faster, more decorative deciduous plants further along the line where summer coverage is enough.

Common mistakes

• Choosing a plant based on how it looks in a nursery pot. Always check mature height and spread before planting, especially near a property line.
• Planting running bamboo without a rhizome barrier. Creates a colony that spreads uncontrollably and is very difficult to remove later.
• Spacing plants too far apart to save money. Wider gaps mean the screen takes noticeably longer to fill in, which often costs more in waiting time than the extra plants would have cost upfront.
• Forgetting to water through the first season. Newly established roots can't take up enough water on their own yet, no matter how drought-tolerant the species is once mature.
• Relying only on deciduous plants where year-round privacy is needed. Works great in summer but leaves you exposed exactly when everything else nearby is also bare.
• Ignoring how the screen looks from the neighbor's side. A screen that shades a neighbor's patio or grows across the property line often creates friction even where no specific rule is broken.

Frequently asked questions

How close to my property line can I plant a privacy screen?
Rules vary widely by location, so check local zoning before planting anything that will grow large. As a general guide, small shrubs are usually fine a foot or two from the line, while anything expected to reach 10 feet (3 m) wide or more deserves more room.

Do I need a permit for a tall privacy hedge?
Usually not. Permit requirements typically apply to solid structures like fences and walls above a certain height, while a living hedge or climbing screen is rarely treated as a structure. The main exception is height limits near intersections or driveways for sight-line safety.

What's the fastest-growing privacy plant?
Vines like Virginia creeper and honeysuckle are among the fastest, adding several feet of coverage in a single season once established. Among clippable hedge plants, arborvitae and privet lead, adding 1–3 feet a year.

Can I create privacy in pots if I only have a balcony?
Yes. Clumping bamboo from the genus Fargesia and clematis on a trellis are two of the most reliable container options, since both handle a limited root zone without becoming invasive or outgrowing the space.

Is bamboo dangerous to plant for privacy?
Running bamboo from the genus Phyllostachys can spread uncontrollably through underground runners if planted without a rhizome barrier. Clumping bamboo like Fargesia doesn't spread the same way and is a much safer choice, both in the ground and in containers.

Is evergreen or deciduous better for privacy?
It depends on when you need the coverage. Evergreens like arborvitae or yew give year-round privacy but often grow more slowly. Deciduous options like lilac or Virginia creeper often grow faster but leave you exposed in winter.

How close together should I plant for a dense screen quickly?
Fast growers like privet are often spaced 12–16 in (30–40 cm) apart, while wider plants like arborvitae and yew are usually planted 16–24 in (40–60 cm) apart. Tighter spacing fills in faster but costs more per foot of hedge.

Can I combine a fence with plants for better privacy?
Yes, and it's often the fastest, cheapest option if a fence already exists. Climbing plants like ivy, honeysuckle or Virginia creeper can cover a bare fence within one to three seasons without you having to build any height from scratch.

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