How to Propagate Monstera from a Cutting

Why does a monstera cutting need a node?

A node is the slightly thickened point on the stem where a leaf attaches and where monstera also produces its brown aerial roots. That's where all the growth tissue for a new plant is concentrated — not in the leaf itself.

A leaf with no node attached can sit in water and occasionally grow a small root, but it stays exactly that: a rooted leaf. It lacks the tissue needed to form new leaves or a new stem, so growth simply stops there.

Good to know. A visible aerial root on your cutting is a good sign — that's exactly where the node sits, and the root has usually already started preparing itself for water or soil.

When is the best time to propagate monstera?

Spring and early summer give the fastest results, since the plant is already in active growth and putting energy into new roots. At room temperature with good light, a cutting can root in as little as three to four weeks.

You can take cuttings in autumn or winter too, but expect it to take noticeably longer — sometimes twice as long — since both light and temperature tend to drop indoors. Give winter cuttings your brightest available spot, ideally near a south- or west-facing window, but still out of harsh direct sun that could overheat the water or dry the soil surface too fast.

How well the parent plant is cared for also affects how quickly a cutting roots. A plant that's already thriving according to our complete monstera care guide tends to produce sturdier cuttings than one that's already struggling with low light or inconsistent watering.

What you'll need

You don't need specialized equipment for this:

1. A sharp, clean pair of pruning snips or a knife. A dull or dirty blade crushes the stem instead of cutting cleanly, which raises the risk of rot.
2. A glass or jar of water if you're water-propagating, or a small pot of damp potting mix if you're going straight to soil.
3. Well-draining soil mixed with bark or perlite, if you choose to root directly in soil.
4. Sphagnum moss or perlite, optionally, as a middle ground between water and soil.
5. A spot with bright, indirect light and fairly stable room temperature — avoid draughts and cold windowsills.

Rooting hormone isn't necessary for monstera — most cuttings root well without it, though a powder or gel can speed things up slightly if you already have some on hand.

Where should you cut?

Trace the stem down from a leaf you want to propagate until you spot a node — often a slight bump, sometimes with a brown aerial root or a scar from an earlier leaf. Make the cut a couple of centimetres (about an inch) below the node, using a clean, angled cut.

One leaf per cutting is enough, though it's fine to include two if the stem has nodes close together. Avoid leaving too many leaves on a single cutting — each one loses water through transpiration that the roots can't yet replace, which raises the chance the cutting wilts before it has a chance to root.

Common mistake. Cutting through the middle of a long, bare stem section without checking for a node first. Always locate the node before you cut — otherwise you're left with a nice-looking leaf that will never become a plant.

Does this work the same for every monstera variety?

Broadly yes, but there are a few differences worth knowing. Monstera deliciosa, the most common type, is the most forgiving to propagate and generally roots without issue using any method.

Monstera adansonii, with its smaller, more perforated leaves, often roots faster thanks to its thinner stem — but that same stem is more fragile and easier to accidentally crush or pinch while cutting.

Variegated types such as Thai Constellation or Monstera albo need a little more care in your selection. The more white or cream a cutting has, the less chlorophyll it has to fuel growth — a cutting that's almost entirely white often roots slowly, or not at all. Choose a cutting with a solid amount of green remaining on the leaf, and avoid splitting an already small variegated leaf any further.

Can you take several cuttings at once, and how does the parent plant cope?

Taking multiple cuttings from the same plant is fine, but avoid removing more than roughly a third of the total stem length in one go. Cut too much at once and the plant struggles to recover, often shedding more leaves than expected.

The cut surface on the parent plant doesn't need sealant or wound paste — monstera naturally forms a thin layer of callus tissue over the cut within about a week. Just ease off watering slightly for the first few days afterward, since the plant temporarily has fewer leaves to lose water through.

New growth usually comes from the node left closest to the cut, often within a few weeks during the growing season. If you want to influence where the plant branches next, cut just above a node you'd like to drive that new growth.

Water, soil, sphagnum or LECA — which method should you use?

There isn't one correct method. All four work, they just suit different situations.

Water is the easiest starting point if you want to watch what's happening beneath the surface. Soil directly skips one transition step later on. Sphagnum or perlite sits somewhere in between — plenty of moisture without soil turning waterlogged.

Rooting in water, step by step

1. Strip off any leaves that would sit below the waterline. Submerged leaves rot and cloud the water.
2. Place the cutting in a jar of room-temperature water so the node and aerial root are covered but the leaf stays above the surface.
3. Set the jar somewhere bright but out of direct sun. Direct sun heats the water and encourages algae.
4. Change the water every 3–5 days, or sooner if it clouds or develops a smell.
5. Wait for visible roots, usually after two to three weeks, before planning the move to soil.

Good to know. Roots grown in water are adapted to take up oxygen from water, not soil. Give them a few days to adjust in damp soil before watering normally — otherwise the leaves can wilt even though the roots are perfectly alive.

Rooting directly in soil, step by step

1. Moisten the potting mix thoroughly before planting the cutting — it should feel damp, not soggy.
2. Bury the node just below the soil surface. That's where the new roots need to form.
3. Support the cutting with a small stake if it's top-heavy or unstable in a small pot.
4. Boost humidity with a loose clear bag over the pot, or a small propagator lid.
5. Keep the soil lightly moist, never wet, and vent the bag for a minute or two a day to prevent mould.
6. Test gently after four weeks — a slight resistance when you tug lightly on the cutting is a good sign roots have formed.

Cuttings rooted directly in soil often droop a little for the first couple of weeks, because the leaf keeps losing water that the roots can't yet replace. That's normal as long as the cutting doesn't turn fully mushy or discoloured.

Rooting in sphagnum moss or LECA, step by step

Sphagnum moss and LECA (expanded clay) both sit somewhere between water and soil: moisture stays more even than in regular potting mix, while roots still get more oxygen than they would sitting in still water.

1. Soak the sphagnum moss until thoroughly wet, then squeeze out the excess so it feels damp, not dripping.
2. Wrap the moss loosely around the node and place the cutting in a clear plastic container or small pot, ideally with a lid or bag to hold humidity.
3. For LECA: rinse the clay pebbles thoroughly before use, fill a clear pot, and rest the node against the damp pebbles with a couple of centimetres of water in the base.
4. Keep moisture consistent — the moss should never fully dry out, but it should never sit in standing water either.
5. Check after about three weeks by gently opening the moss or looking through the clear LECA container.

The advantage of both methods is that you can pot the cutting into soil without the same adjustment shock that water roots go through, since the roots are already used to a moist but oxygen-rich environment.

Moving a water-rooted cutting into soil

Wait until roots are at least 3–5 cm (1–2 in) long and you can count at least two or three before potting up. Younger roots are fragile and can stall or get damaged when they suddenly meet air and drier soil.

Choose a small pot, just a couple of centimetres wider than the root ball — an oversized pot holds moisture longer than the roots can absorb it, raising the risk of rot. Keep the soil evenly moist for the first two weeks and hold off on fertilizer until you see a new leaf, usually three to four weeks later.

Common mistakes

• Cutting without checking for a node. The result is a leaf that will never turn into a plant.
• Never changing the water. Stagnant water becomes low in oxygen and encourages rot.
• Moving to soil too early. Roots that are too short don't establish well and the cutting can wilt badly.
• Potting straight into an oversized container. Extra damp soil around a small root system increases rot risk.
• Fertilizing right at potting-up time. Young roots are sensitive and can be burned by fertilizer before they've established.
• Giving up too soon in winter. Cold, dim conditions can double the rooting time — that doesn't mean the cutting is dead.

Most of these mistakes are the same ones that trip people up with houseplants in general — wrong moisture, wrong light, or fertilizing too soon. Monstera itself ranks among the more forgiving houseplants once established, which makes propagation more forgiving too compared with fussier species.

Good to know. Want to keep a freshly rooted cutting somewhere a little dimmer before it moves to its permanent spot? Our guide to low-light houseplants is a useful reference for how much light different spots actually provide.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take for a monstera cutting to root?
Expect three to six weeks in water or sphagnum, and four to eight weeks directly in soil. In winter, with less light and lower temperatures, it can take considerably longer — sometimes double.

Does the cutting need an aerial root to root successfully?
No, but it helps. What actually matters is the node, not the aerial root itself. A visible aerial root is simply a sign the node is already preparing to grow more roots.

Can I propagate monstera from just a leaf with no node?
No. A leaf with no node can, at best, grow a small root and survive in water for a while, but it lacks the tissue needed to produce new leaves or a new stem.

Is water or soil propagation better?
Both work. Water makes it easier to track rooting visually but requires an adjustment period once you move the cutting to soil. Soil skips that step but makes it harder to see what's actually happening underground.

Why is my cutting rotting instead of rooting?
Usually too much moisture, too cold a spot, or a dirty cut. Trim away any rotten tissue back to healthy material, switch to fresh water or drier soil, and keep the temperature above 18°C (64°F).

How often should I change the water when water-propagating?
Every three to five days is a good starting point. Change it sooner if it clouds, develops a film on the surface, or starts to smell.

When should I move the cutting into soil?
Once roots are at least 3–5 cm (1–2 in) long and there are two or three of them. Hold off on fertilizer until a new leaf appears, usually three to four weeks after potting up.

Can I propagate monstera in winter?
Yes, but rooting slows down due to lower light and cooler indoor temperatures. Give the cutting your brightest available spot and expect up to double the rooting time compared with spring and summer.

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