Best Secateurs: How to Choose the Right Pair for Your Garden

Bypass, anvil or ratchet – which type do you need?

Nearly every pair of secateurs on the market falls into one of three types. The difference is in how the blades meet, and that determines both the quality of the cut and what kind of wood the tool handles best.

Bypass – the default for most gardens

Bypass secateurs have two blades that slide past each other, much like scissors. That produces a clean, shearing cut that damages less surrounding tissue, which means the wound heals faster. This is the type you want for almost all pruning of living growth, from roses and berry bushes to fruit trees.

Anvil – better at what bypass struggles with

An anvil pair has a single blade that presses down onto a flat plate, more like a knife against a chopping board. That crushing action makes anvil secateurs a poor choice on soft, living stems, where the cut tends to bruise and heal badly. They do better on dry or dead wood, though, since there's no thin bypass blade to bend or jam in tougher material.

Ratchet – power delivered in stages

Ratchet secateurs usually build on the anvil principle but split the cutting force into several small stages rather than one hard squeeze. That lets you cut thicker branches without needing as much hand strength in a single motion. The benefit is most noticeable if you have a weaker grip, arthritis, or simply tire quickly during a long pruning session. The trade-off is that each cut takes a little longer, since you're "pumping" the handle in stages rather than closing it in one go.

Good to know. If you only own one pair, make it bypass. It handles most of what actually comes up in a typical garden – roses, berry bushes, most fruit trees – without you having to compromise on cut quality.

What actually makes a pair of secateurs good?

Two pairs can look almost identical on the shelf and behave completely differently six months later. The difference rarely lies in what's easiest to see in the shop.

Blade steel

Carbon steel holds a sharp edge longer between sharpenings but needs wiping down and light oiling to avoid rust. Stainless steel needs less maintenance but dulls a bit faster under hard use. Many mid-range and higher pairs use a coated carbon steel – often with a thin titanium or PTFE coating – which combines good edge retention with less sap sticking to the blade.

Pivot and mechanism

The joint where the blades meet, the pivot, is what decides how long secateurs stay in good working order. A pivot held together with a bolt and nut can be re-tightened as it loosens with age, while a riveted pivot is fixed permanently and has to be replaced as a whole unit once it develops play. This single detail is often the real difference between a pair that lasts fifteen years and one that feels worn out after three seasons.

Return spring

The spring that reopens the blades after each cut sits either as a curved wire spring on the outside of the handle or as a hidden coil spring inside the mechanism. Wire springs are easy to replace yourself but can occasionally catch on clothing or branches. Internal springs stay out of the way but are harder to repair without the right tools.

Handle material

Forged aluminium handles are light but still stiff, which is why they're common from the mid-range up. Fibreglass-reinforced polymer handles weigh about the same but can feel less rigid on heavy cuts, particularly in cold weather. Solid steel handles are tough but noticeably heavier, which shows after extended use. None of these is wrong on its own – it's a trade-off between weight, stiffness and price.

Safety catch

A good catch should open and close with one hand, without needing both thumbs or setting the tool down. A catch that rotates within the joint itself is usually the smoothest in practice, while a loose sliding catch can feel fiddly once your hand is already dirty or wet.

Good to know. Ask whether a worn pivot can be re-tightened, whether the spring can be replaced, and whether spare blades are sold separately. Secateurs where the answer is yes to all three tend to outlast the price tag by a wide margin.

How thick a branch can secateurs cut?

Cutting capacity – the maximum branch diameter the maker states – is usually the number that decides whether a job goes smoothly or becomes a fight. Most everyday secateurs handle 20–26 mm (0.8–1 in) in healthy, living wood. In drier or already-dead material, the same pair can often manage a little more, since the wood is stiffer but less fibrous.

Forcing secateurs past their rated capacity is the fastest way to ruin both the cut and the tool. The blades flex, the pivot takes abnormal strain, and you risk twisting the branch instead of cutting it cleanly, which tears bark further down than necessary. If you regularly need to remove branches thicker than your secateurs' capacity, for example during a heavier renovation prune on an apple tree, it's worth switching to loppers or a hand saw rather than pushing the secateurs to their limit every time. Getting the timing right for the larger cuts matters too – our guide to the summer pruning window covers when most trees and shrubs tolerate it best.

Common mistake. Twisting or levering secateurs sideways to force through a branch that's too thick. It wears out the pivot for no good reason and still leaves a worse cut than simply switching to the right tool.

Secateurs, loppers or hedge shears – where's the line?

A lot of buyers pick up a heavy-duty pair of secateurs expecting it to handle everything in the garden, then feel let down when it can neither manage a thick branch nor leave a tidy hedge line. The three tools are built for different jobs, and keeping that straight saves both money and frustration.

Secateurs are designed for one-handed use and individual, precise cuts on branches up to roughly 26 mm (1 in). Loppers have long handles and a two-handed action that delivers far more force per cut, letting them handle branches up to around 40–50 mm (1.5–2 in) without climbing into the tree or reaching for a saw. Hedge shears, manual or powered, aren't built for individual branches at all – they're shaped to trim many thin shoots across a surface at once, which is exactly what's needed when you're trimming a hedge into shape.

If you're only buying one of the three, make it a good pair of bypass secateurs. It covers most of what actually comes up in an ordinary garden, and you can always borrow or buy loppers the day a single branch turns out too thick.

Is a used or refurbished pair worth buying?

A well-made pair of forged-steel secateurs can last for decades, which makes buying secondhand a genuinely reasonable option – something most buying guides skip entirely. Look for a pivot that can still be tightened, blades that aren't heavily corroded, and a mechanism with no cracked or missing parts.

Surface rust on the blade is usually salvageable with some sharpening and oil, while pitting – deep rust pockets in the metal itself – permanently weakens the edge no matter how much you sharpen it afterwards. Springs and pivot bolts for well-known older models can often be ordered separately, which means a tired but fundamentally sound pair can keep working for years instead of ending up in landfill.

That's not a minor detail environmentally. Secateurs you can service and repair rather than replace at the first sign of wear are simply a better investment over time, whether they started out new or secondhand.

Which handle and grip actually fit your hand?

This is the part of buying secateurs that's hardest to judge without actually holding a pair. A model that feels perfect for a neighbour can feel far too large, or too stiff to open, in your own hand.

Test in the shop if you can: open and close the handle several times in a row. The handle's opening width should match your hand size – too wide and you're stretching unnaturally, too narrow and the grip feels cramped. Some models have an adjustable handle span controlled by a small screw, which is useful if more than one person in the household shares the same pair.

Left-handed gardeners should specifically look for secateurs labelled for left-hand use, especially in bypass models. The blade angle is built for a particular hand direction, and a right-handed pair used in the left hand gives a worse cut and needs more force, no matter how used to it you get.

Weight matters more than it seems on a thirty-second shop test. A pair that feels perfectly fine in hand for half a minute can feel considerably heavier after an hour of pruning a full bed of hydrangeas or a run of roses. Check the weight in grams or ounces on the packaging and compare between models if you know you'll be cutting for extended stretches.

Good to know. If you already own a heavier pair for tougher jobs, a second, smaller pair can be worth the money for finer work – for example when pruning roses, where precision matters more than raw capacity.

What should you actually pay for a good pair?

Secateur prices run from around £10–£15 ($15–$20) for the most basic models to well over £80 ($100) for professional pairs with replaceable parts and a lifetime mechanism warranty. Most of that difference isn't about how sharp the blade is on day one – it's about how long the tool stays in good working order.

A pair under £15 can work perfectly well if you prune once a month and look after it properly. Spending more pays off mainly if you prune a lot, say you're keeping several fruit trees on an annual pruning schedule, or if you'd rather replace a worn blade than buy an entirely new pair a few years down the line.

Good to know. A recognisable brand name isn't a guarantee on its own. Check instead whether the maker sells spare parts and how long the warranty runs on the mechanism specifically, not just on the product as a whole.

How do you look after secateurs so they last?

Care affects lifespan more than price does. A mid-range pair that's wiped down and oiled regularly will often outlast an expensive pair left damp in a bucket after every use.

Wipe the blades after each pruning session, especially after cutting anything sappy or resinous. Add a drop of oil to the pivot roughly once a month during the growing season so the mechanism keeps moving freely. Sharpen the edge once you notice the cut starting to crush rather than slice cleanly – that's a clearer signal than counting how many times you've used the tool.

Clean and disinfect the blades between plants if you suspect disease, for instance when pruning roses affected by fungal problems. Otherwise you risk carrying the problem straight to the next shrub you cut. A full walkthrough of sharpening, cleaning and winter storage for garden tools gets its own dedicated guide – for now, the basic principle is enough: dry, clean and lightly oiled.

A simple belt holster or sheath makes more difference than it sounds. Beyond saving you from hunting for the secateurs in the grass, it keeps the edge from knocking against other tools in a bag or bucket, which is a common reason an otherwise good blade gets nicked early.

Common mistake. Putting secateurs away in the shed at the end of the season without wiping them down. Moisture and leftover plant sap are the most common reason an otherwise good pair seizes up or starts rusting by spring.

How to choose secateurs, step by step

1. Decide what you cut most. Mostly living growth, roses and berry bushes points to bypass. Mostly dead wood or rougher clearance points to anvil or a heavier ratchet model.
2. Test the grip if you can. Open and close the handle several times in the shop. It should feel comfortable without stretching or straining your hand.
3. Match capacity to your reality. Work out the thickest branch you cut regularly and buy secateurs with some margin above it, not right at the limit.
4. Check whether the pivot and blades can be replaced. A screwed pivot with available spare parts will outlast a fully sealed unit by a wide margin.
5. Weigh it in your hand. The difference between roughly 180 and 280 grams (6 and 10 oz) is barely noticeable in a minute but very noticeable after an hour of cutting.
6. Set your budget by how often you'll use it, not by brand. Occasional pruning is fine with a basic pair. Frequent pruning makes a serviceable pivot worth paying for.
7. Test the safety catch. It should open and close with one hand, even when that hand is dirty or slightly damp.
8. Consider a second, smaller pair. A compact model for finer work pairs well with a heavier main pair if it feels clumsy on delicate plants.

Common mistakes when buying secateurs

• Choosing too little capacity. A pair that only just manages 18 mm quickly falls short the moment you're working on a fruit tree or an older shrub.
• Buying on brand name instead of testing the grip. A well-known name doesn't help if the handle doesn't suit your hand.
• Forgetting about left-handed use. A standard right-handed pair performs worse than expected for a left-handed user, especially in bypass models.
• Ignoring maintenance on an expensive pair. Good steel left to rust in the shed underperforms a cheaper blade that's properly cared for.
• Using the same pair on diseased and healthy plants without cleaning. That spreads fungal and bacterial problems around the garden.
• Forcing the wrong tool through a thick, dry branch. Pushing a light bypass pair through wood it can't handle damages both the tool and the cut – switch to loppers instead.

Frequently asked questions

Are more expensive secateurs always better?
Not automatically. A pair in the £20–£45 ($25–$55) range with an adjustable pivot and replaceable parts covers the needs of most home gardens. The top price tier pays off mainly with daily or professional use, where every saved motion and every extra minute adds up.

How do I know whether to choose bypass or anvil?
Think about what you cut most. If it's mostly living growth – roses, berry bushes, fruit trees – bypass is the right choice in almost every case. If it's mostly dry or dead wood, say general clearance work, an anvil or ratchet pair is often more effective.

What cutting capacity in mm do I need for an ordinary garden?
20–26 mm (0.8–1 in) covers most of what comes up in a typical home garden, including the majority of branches you'll remove from roses, berry bushes and younger fruit trees. If you have older, heavier fruit trees, it's worth adding loppers for the genuinely thick branches.

Are there secateurs made for left-handed gardeners?
Yes, several manufacturers sell bypass secateurs specifically built for left-handed use, with the blade angle reversed compared with the standard model. Look for it explicitly in the product description, since it rarely shows clearly in the photo.

How often should I sharpen secateurs?
It depends more on how much you cut than on the calendar. A clear sign is when the cut starts crushing the fibres instead of slicing cleanly through them – that's when to sharpen, whether it's been a month or a year.

Can I use the same pair on roses and fruit trees?
Yes, an ordinary bypass pair with the right capacity handles both without issue. Wipe and disinfect the blades between plants, particularly if either shows signs of fungal or bacterial disease, to avoid spreading the problem.

What does a ratchet mechanism actually do differently?
A ratchet mechanism splits the cutting force into several smaller stages instead of one hard squeeze, letting you cut thicker branches with less force in each hand movement. That makes it a good option if you have a weaker grip or joint issues, at the cost of each cut taking a little longer.

How long does a good pair of secateurs last?
A mid-range pair or better, with an adjustable pivot and proper care, typically lasts 10–15 years without major problems. Models with replaceable blades and springs can last considerably longer, since you can service them instead of buying new when a single part wears out.

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